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Old 01-24-2013, 01:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default ATTENTION: eBay sellers with BIN/BO!

1. If someone takes the time to make you an offer, RESPOND WITH A COUNTEROFFER. WHether it's 1 penny less than your initial selling price or a few dollars less, take the time to respond. You may just negotiate yourself a sale.

2. Don't ever block someone for making an offer that you feel is too low. You're shooting yourself in the foot. If they do it 20 times, maybe consider it, but it's ridiculous to block them from ever buying your product again. Costing yourself money.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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how long did you wait? was it the full 48 hours that passed or were you impatient? Was there only a little time left in the auction? I know there are times I don't get the messages from ebay for minutes to hours later after offers come in and if there is only a little time left I will miss out.

I got some guy wanting to buy something of mine but he cancelled his offer 21 hours in as "I didn't respond" for the reason. I reported him as that was bogus and I got into it w/him on a message to find out what the deal was.

I now state in my auctions I am entitled to use all 48 hours given by ebay to accept/counter/decline offers.

A little more info would make this thread better and buyers should be in the same boat if a counter is sent their way.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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how long did you wait? was it the full 48 hours that passed or were you impatient? Was there only a little time left in the auction? I know there are times I don't get the messages from ebay for minutes to hours later after offers come in and if there is only a little time left I will miss out.

I got some guy wanting to buy something of mine but he cancelled his offer 21 hours in as "I didn't respond" for the reason. I reported him as that was bogus and I got into it w/him on a message to find out what the deal was.

I now state in my auctions I am entitled to use all 48 hours http://www.blowoutcards.com/forums/i.../edit.gifgiven by ebay to accept/counter/decline offers.

A little more info would make this thread better and buyers should be in the same boat if a counter is sent their way.
Wait?

I'm talking about sellers who refuse to make a counteroffer to an offer -- denying it outright -- and block bidders for making an initial best offer not to their liking. This has nothing to do with waiting.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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1. If someone takes the time to make you an offer, RESPOND WITH A COUNTEROFFER. WHether it's 1 penny less than your initial selling price or a few dollars less, take the time to respond. You may just negotiate yourself a sale.

2. Don't ever block someone for making an offer that you feel is too low. You're shooting yourself in the foot. If they do it 20 times, maybe consider it, but it's ridiculous to block them from ever buying your product again. Costing yourself money.
1. Insulting offers do not deserve a counter.
2. Lowballers are a waste of time and get on my 200+ blocked bidders list in a blink. They usually wouldn't pay anywhere close to honest value.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Wait?

I'm talking about sellers who refuse to make a counteroffer to an offer -- denying it outright -- and block bidders for making an initial best offer not to their liking. This has nothing to do with waiting.
OK, your initial post didn't state that. I would and will also block low ballers. Also plenty of sellers have auto decline set up, maybe you didn't reach the threshold he was looking for. I've given plenty of offers of the years and not gotten a response from the seller, only to see the card sell down the road for less than I was offering.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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1. If someone takes the time to make you an offer, RESPOND WITH A COUNTEROFFER. WHether it's 1 penny less than your initial selling price or a few dollars less, take the time to respond. You may just negotiate yourself a sale.

2. Don't ever block someone for making an offer that you feel is too low. You're shooting yourself in the foot. If they do it 20 times, maybe consider it, but it's ridiculous to block them from ever buying your product again. Costing yourself money.

This is true... But I love the buyers who send $1 on a high end item. I really should put auto declines - but I never do.

I use to counter those $1 guys, but they come back with $2 or something like that.

BUYERS: If a seller is willing to take the time to counter your low ball offer. Take the time to counter back, or decline the offer - don't just let it expire... Door swings both ways.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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1. Insulting offers do not deserve a counter.
2. Lowballers are a waste of time and get on my 200+ blocked bidders list in a blink. They usually wouldn't pay anywhere close to honest value.
Ah, my target.

1. How is an offer insulting? Someone is willing to offer you MONEY for an intrisically worthless piece of chrome, paper, and or ink. While it may be less than market, is it not possible that the buyer finds your price FAR too expensive and wants to get you down to a reasonable level rather than offer their best price first?

As a buyer, if I come across a card at 200% of what the going rate is, I have two options. 1) offer 50% of the going rate to hopefully get the seller down to something reasonable, then hope to meet at 80-100%; or 2) offer 90-100% only to be met with a 150% offer. I often do #1, which 2 out of 10 times gets me on someone's "blocked bidder" list -- when I was willing to pay market price in the first place.

2. You're absolutely incorrect. You have no idea what someone's willing to pay unless you go through the BO process.

I'm probably on your blocked buyer list already but let me know your user ID so I make sure I don't buy from you.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Why would I bother to counter if the card is selling for like a $100 and the person makes an offer of like $30?

I tried that. Countered someone back with $90 and then he countered back with $35. Waste of time.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw View Post
1. If someone takes the time to make you an offer, RESPOND WITH A COUNTEROFFER. WHether it's 1 penny less than your initial selling price or a few dollars less, take the time to respond. You may just negotiate yourself a sale.

2. Don't ever block someone for making an offer that you feel is too low. You're shooting yourself in the foot. If they do it 20 times, maybe consider it, but it's ridiculous to block them from ever buying your product again. Costing yourself money.
First off I thought your blowout name was Bob Lowball lmao

Secondly if I have a card on eBay and i get a lowball offer, I am not costing myself money by blocking them, I am saving time in the future. Lowballers are not going to pay what you want, because if they really wanted the card they would send a solid offer under what they inititally wanted to pay. I had a Von Miller superfractor auto rc on eBay a year and a half ago and some offered me $125.00 for it. I sold it for 1200.00. Do you really expect me to counteroffer that retard?

Please tell us what you offered someone and how much so we can judge why you didn't get countered.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Why would I bother to counter if the card is selling for like a $100 and the person makes an offer of like $30?

I tried that. Countered someone back with $90 and then he countered back with $35. Waste of time.
Ah, so if one person is an idiot, it makes more sense not to counter at all to the rest of the eBay population.


ONE BAD EXPERIENCE and there's no point in EVER countering another low offer again.

Makes perfect sense.


(to angelfan36 - Matt - who just sent me a $1 offer - well played, smartass)
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So if I offered you 10.00 on both your Darin Ruf gold refractor rcs, you are really going to waste your time and counter? I guess if you have time on your hands
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ah, my target.

1. How is an offer insulting? Someone is willing to offer you MONEY for an intrisically worthless piece of chrome, paper, and or ink. While it may be less than market, is it not possible that the buyer finds your price FAR too expensive and wants to get you down to a reasonable level rather than offer their best price first?

As a buyer, if I come across a card at 200% of what the going rate is, I have two options. 1) offer 50% of the going rate to hopefully get the seller down to something reasonable, then hope to meet at 80-100%; or 2) offer 90-100% only to be met with a 150% offer. I often do #1, which 2 out of 10 times gets me on someone's "blocked bidder" list -- when I was willing to pay market price in the first place.

2. You're absolutely incorrect. You have no idea what someone's willing to pay unless you go through the BO process.

I'm probably on your blocked buyer list already but let me know your user ID so I make sure I don't buy from you.
If I am willing to pay market price, I usually offer 70%- 80%. Most of the time, it will settle at 90% to 100%. I KNOW if I offer 50%, there is a good chance I will never see that card again.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ah, so if one person is an idiot, it makes more sense not to counter at all to the rest of the eBay population.


ONE BAD EXPERIENCE and there's no point in EVER countering another low offer again.

Makes perfect sense.


(to angelfan36 - Matt - who just sent me a $1 offer - well played, smartass)

I think you are missing the point my man. If a card is selling for 100.00 and someone offers 30.00, than why even counter? Im guessing the BIN price was set around 150 or so. If the buyer offered say 65 or 70 than that is a respectable offer and it WOULD be countered. If 10 people offer 30.00 on a 100 card than why would anyone waste a counter? They aren't showing any signs that they really want the card. If they really want to buy the card they would message the seller if they aren't getting counter offers.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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First off I thought your blowout name was Bob Lowball lmao

Secondly if I have a card on eBay and i get a lowball offer, I am not costing myself money by blocking them, I am saving time in the future. Lowballers are not going to pay what you want, because if they really wanted the card they would send a solid offer under what they inititally wanted to pay. I had a Von Miller superfractor auto rc on eBay a year and a half ago and some offered me $125.00 for it. I sold it for 1200.00. Do you really expect me to counteroffer that retard?

Please tell us what you offered someone and how much so we can judge why you didn't get countered.
I'm not going to respond to your superfractor auction as it is inapplicable. There is no market value for this card as it's a 1/1. However, calling someone a retard certainly shows your age and maturity level.

You can judge me? REally? Well, I'll play your game. Tommy Joseph base Bowman Chrome Auto. $15 BIN/BO. Offered $7. Last three sold for 1) less than $12 (BIN/BO but the price is not disclosed); $7.99, and $7.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ah, my target.

1. How is an offer insulting? Someone is willing to offer you MONEY for an intrisically worthless piece of chrome, paper, and or ink. While it may be less than market, is it not possible that the buyer finds your price FAR too expensive and wants to get you down to a reasonable level rather than offer their best price first?

As a buyer, if I come across a card at 200% of what the going rate is, I have two options. 1) offer 50% of the going rate to hopefully get the seller down to something reasonable, then hope to meet at 80-100%; or 2) offer 90-100% only to be met with a 150% offer. I often do #1, which 2 out of 10 times gets me on someone's "blocked bidder" list -- when I was willing to pay market price in the first place.

2. You're absolutely incorrect. You have no idea what someone's willing to pay unless you go through the BO process.

I'm probably on your blocked buyer list already but let me know your user ID so I make sure I don't buy from you.
Bob Lowball...

1. If it's intrinsically worthless and we're going down that philosophical road we'll be here all day. Back to reality. Agreed? Also, I don't sell cards so you make an assumption. I often sell silver or gold. Commodities. I don't overinflate my BIN sales. I try to leave a little wiggle room due to the nature of this type of sale. A buyer for that type of item should have a degree of market knowledge. If they do and lowball me they get the boot for being insulting. If they do not, yet lowball me, they get the boot for being ignorant.

2. I doubt you can afford the items I list unless you lowball me so you probably are already on it.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I think you are missing the point my man. If a card is selling for 100.00 and someone offers 30.00, than why even counter? Im guessing the BIN price was set around 150 or so. If the buyer offered say 65 or 70 than that is a respectable offer and it WOULD be countered. If 10 people offer 30.00 on a 100 card than why would anyone waste a counter? They aren't showing any signs that they really want the card. If they really want to buy the card they would message the seller if they aren't getting counter offers.
Your BIN was $150. You knew that the market value was $100. Why did you place a value of $150 on it? Perhaps because you were hoping that there was a sucker that was going to hit the BIN and pay you more than the market value?

Perhaps the buyer was thinking the same thing - then once they realized that you knew the market value, they would have paid that.

But, because they were blocked, they were never given the chance to offer that market value, and you cost yourself a sale.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yeah, I try to put my BIN/OBO around the selling price. Say the card normally sells for $200 on a regular basis. If I put it up at $219.99 BIN/OBO hoping someone comes in around the usual sale price of $200, or even as low as $150 I will work with them. The guy that makes the $15 offer gets declined right awayC
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:14 PM   #18 (permalink)
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1. If it's intrinsically worthless and we're going down that philosophical road we'll be here all day. Back to reality. Agreed? Also, I don't sell cards so you make an assumption. I often sell silver or gold. Commodities. I don't overinflate my BIN sales. I try to leave a little wiggle room due to the nature of this type of sale. A buyer for that type of item should have a degree of market knowledge. If they do and lowball me they get the boot for being insulting. If they do not, yet lowball me, they get the boot for being ignorant.

2. I doubt you can afford the items I list unless you lowball me so you probably are already on it.
1) This is a baseball card message board, not a gold/silver message board, last I checked. My rant had absolutely nothing to do with gold and silver, where there are numerous avenues for sale.

2) You know nothing about me. I'm pretty sure I could buy your cards, if I wanted to. However, now I'm quite interested as to who you are on eBay.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm not going to respond to your superfractor auction as it is inapplicable. There is no market value for this card as it's a 1/1. However, calling someone a retard certainly shows your age and maturity level.

You can judge me? REally? Well, I'll play your game. Tommy Joseph base Bowman Chrome Auto. $15 BIN/BO. Offered $7. Last three sold for 1) less than $12 (BIN/BO but the price is not disclosed); $7.99, and $7.
Your talking about 15.00 cards here, first off that's even a waste of time to talk about because your talking about a few dollars. I think most people are talking about cards that sell for 100+ getting lowballed. Obviously if you have a card for 15.00 BIN or BO than 7.00 isn't a lowball, those are nickel and dime cards. The seller prob. has an eBay store and would rather the cards just sit on there until baseball season rather than waste time packaging a 7.00 sale.

Since you are so mature in your ways why don't you take the whole not getting countered thing like a man and shrug it off. That's business. OR you can whine to a message board? That's what a mature lad would do and all.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:15 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Yeah, I try to put my BIN/OBO around the selling price. Say the card normally sells for $200 on a regular basis. If I put it up at $219.99 BIN/OBO hoping someone comes in around the usual sale price of $200, or even as low as $150 I will work with them. The guy that makes the $15 offer gets declined right awayC
Would it kill you to offer $215 on the 1-100 chance that the buyer raises his buy price?
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:17 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Your talking about 15.00 cards here, first off that's even a waste of time to talk about because your talking about a few dollars. I think most people are talking about cards that sell for 100+ getting lowballed. Obviously if you have a card for 15.00 BIN or BO than 7.00 isn't a lowball, those are nickel and dime cards. The seller prob. has an eBay store and would rather the cards just sit on there until baseball season rather than waste time packaging a 7.00 sale.

Since you are so mature in your ways why don't you take the whole not getting countered thing like a man and shrug it off. That's business. OR you can whine to a message board? That's what a mature lad would do and all.
1) I'm talking about a $7 card, not a $15 card in this one example. However, it holds true whether we're talking about a $7 card or a $300 card.

2) I was offering advice to the sellers here to not turn away low offers and ban buyers as it is horrible business for them. If you choose not to accept this advice, which you're more than welcome to refuse, and to continue to call your potential customers "Retards", feel free to never enter this thread again or look to my posts.

Good day, sir.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:18 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Would it kill you to offer $215 on the 1-100 chance that the buyer raises his buy price?
Why do you care what he does? Do you end up getting blocked that much?
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:18 PM   #23 (permalink)
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1. Insulting offers do not deserve a counter.
2. Lowballers are a waste of time and get on my 200+ blocked bidders list in a blink. They usually wouldn't pay anywhere close to honest value.
^^^^^^^THIS
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:18 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Your BIN was $150. You knew that the market value was $100. Why did you place a value of $150 on it? Perhaps because you were hoping that there was a sucker that was going to hit the BIN and pay you more than the market value?

Perhaps the buyer was thinking the same thing - then once they realized that you knew the market value, they would have paid that.

But, because they were blocked, they were never given the chance to offer that market value, and you cost yourself a sale.
You make no sense Bob, you obviously know that you are wrong and are being owned here, no sense in digging a deeper hole. A buyer doesn't offer 30.00 on a card that sells for 100 in hopes the seller doesn't know the market value. Obviously the seller knows the market value. A seller sets his bin higher than 100 hoping for that market value offer or even a little less. They don't ever expect a BIN to be set.

I saw a Mike Stanton contenders BGS 9.5 auto for sale with a BIN or best offer of 550.00. The BIN was hit instantly. If a seller doesn't know the market value than THAT happens.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:19 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I usually block low ballers. Could really care less if it cost me a couple of bucks here or there.
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