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Old 01-31-2013, 01:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to sell a big name 1/1 on eBay?

When selling bigger cards, I have always been under the impression that using the BIN or BO gives me a lot more control over a sale.

My dilemma is that I have the Limited Inked Emmitt Smith 1/1 listed right now and have had two legit offers. I countered both with what I thought was reasonable. The one guy never responded, the other has bought the last 4-5 Emmitt 1/1s that were up. He paid 399.99 (which I would take) for the last one but is telling me he will go no more than a certain amount for this one. I havent been a hard ass or anything, just wanting a fair price.

At this point I would just take the last offer we were at, but there is no response now, from either guy. Would I do better to put this out there and let it run. I am thinking with the Cowboys fan base it could get up where I want it fairly easy. I am also thinking about using a reserve, do these scare bidders away.

Thanks for any response, I dont sell on eBay very often.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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When selling bigger cards, I have always been under the impression that using the BIN or BO gives me a lot more control over a sale.

My dilemma is that I have the Limited Inked Emmitt Smith 1/1 listed right now and have had two legit offers. I countered both with what I thought was reasonable. The one guy never responded, the other has bought the last 4-5 Emmitt 1/1s that were up. He paid 399.99 (which I would take) for the last one but is telling me he will go no more than a certain amount for this one. I havent been a hard ass or anything, just wanting a fair price.

At this point I would just take the last offer we were at, but there is no response now, from either guy. Would I do better to put this out there and let it run. I am thinking with the Cowboys fan base it could get up where I want it fairly easy. I am also thinking about using a reserve, do these scare bidders away.

Thanks for any response, I dont sell on eBay very often.
i would do bin/bo and wait a few more days if you list dont list with reserve for auction
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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BIN/BO will always be your best bet, but you played hardball with them and it looks like you lost. It's the risk you take, I've found you get a lot of lowballers so when a somewhat legit offers comes along it's probably the best you will get and to not hold out for much more. You risk them backing off which it appears happened to you.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It's been my experience if you want the most watchers/bidders list it at .99 auction. People hate reserves and high BIN's just annoy people and scare them away. This is an Emmit Smith 1/1 cowboy collectors are insane. You'll get top dollar with an auction.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I feel like my counters were pretty fair and was thinking another counter would come afterwards to get a little closer to where both parties wanted to be, but I see your point.

Im not hard up for the money, I just keep thinking about what I could get if I sell it!
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It's been my experience if you want the most watchers/bidders list it at .99 auction. People hate reserves and high BIN's just annoy people and scare them away. This is an Emmit Smith 1/1 cowboy collectors are insane. You'll get top dollar with an auction.
This......
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I feel like my counters were pretty fair and was thinking another counter would come afterwards to get a little closer to where both parties wanted to be, but I see your point.

Im not hard up for the money, I just keep thinking about what I could get if I sell it!
Fair or not, some people put out what they are willing to pay and that's the bottom line. So anytime you get something near what you want you can counter and risk them ignoring you or take the money and walk. You took the risk and may have lost the sales. It happens, no biggie, it's the risk you take.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Fair or not, some people put out what they are willing to pay and that's the bottom line. So anytime you get something near what you want you can counter and risk them ignoring you or take the money and walk. You took the risk and may have lost the sales. It happens, no biggie, it's the risk you take.
Exactly. However, I would add that, with a card like an Emmitt Smith 1/1, the risk is less than with most others. What I've found to work best is have a number in mind that is the least you'd take on that card and make sure to be consistent at that number. Eventually, you will get another offer at that amount, if not more. The vast majority of my Ebay sales in the past year have been higher-end items at BIN/BO and you'd be amazed at how well you can do if you stick to your convictions and wait it out.
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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This......
Agreed... Outrageous High BINs really piss me off...
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Fair or not, some people put out what they are willing to pay and that's the bottom line. So anytime you get something near what you want you can counter and risk them ignoring you or take the money and walk. You took the risk and may have lost the sales. It happens, no biggie, it's the risk you take.
This too!!!
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the opinions everyone. Like I said, not too concerned on cashing out right away, so it will sit and eventually all those Cowboys collectors will know where it is. I may even shop it for trades

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Agreed... Outrageous High BINs really piss me off...
Outrageous BINs confuse me. I get that people want some attention, but a RGIII 1/1 is going to be looked at a lot no matter how high the BIN is so why scare off a certain group of people from offering.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You need to have a pretty good idea going in what's a legit offer and what is a lowball. If someone gives me a legit offer I usually don't counter it because 90% that's the last you'll hear from them. The way to play it in your case is be patient, get 2 offers in, keep your highest offer, counter the lower one, then if the counter doesn't work you still have the highest offer. Use your 48 hour window and don't be greedy
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:27 AM   #13 (permalink)
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You need to have a pretty good idea going in what's a legit offer and what is a lowball. If someone gives me a legit offer I usually don't counter it because 90% that's the last you'll hear from them. The way to play it in your case is be patient, get 2 offers in, keep your highest offer, counter the lower one, then if the counter doesn't work you still have the highest offer. Use your 48 hour window and don't be greedy
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Vincesanity View Post
You need to have a pretty good idea going in what's a legit offer and what is a lowball. If someone gives me a legit offer I usually don't counter it because 90% that's the last you'll hear from them. The way to play it in your case is be patient, get 2 offers in, keep your highest offer, counter the lower one, then if the counter doesn't work you still have the highest offer. Use your 48 hour window and don't be greedy
I did exactly this. I also feel like I did my due dilligence. I knew what the last 10 Emmitt 1/1s had sold at. very few were not plates or spam titles with 22/25 numbering or something like that, one was a jumbo patch booklet that finished near 650. I was thinking $375-400 sv was pretty fair for me and a buyer.

Ok, here is what has happened. The last true 1/1 that was not a plate (or said numbering 1/1 spam title) sold for 399.99. That same buyer of that card offered 300. Meanwhile another member offers 325. I countered the first guy with 425 hoping we would get back near 400 Maybe I got a little greedy here, but expected a counter in return as he had told me all about his amazing Emmitt collection and having 16 1/1s, blah blah... Meanwhile the offer at 325 expires. The first guy then says via message he will do no more than $325 which I say, "Fine, I will do that." Even though I dont understand why a newer product should be valued $75 less than 2011 Timeless Treasures. But he never actually submitted the $325 offer as of now.

My BIN price is set at 599. Its not exorbitant or ridiculous for a 1/1 IMO. I dont think I was being greedy or unreasonable. Just wondering why what should be a desirable card has been such a slow mover.

I appreciate the opinions, and I asked for thoughts, but I just wanted to make sure it was known that I thought I had a pretty good handle going in and have been slightly confused by the experience. I was als basically wondering if it would be a good idea to just let it run auction style.
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Last edited by chutneyfactory; 01-31-2013 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It's been my experience if you want the most watchers/bidders list it at .99 auction. People hate reserves and high BIN's just annoy people and scare them away. This is an Emmit Smith 1/1 cowboy collectors are insane. You'll get top dollar with an auction.
do this.

99 cents with a BIN at what you thought is a fair offer. It will probably get bid on rather than somebody hitting the BIN, but dude, Cowboys collectors are in fact insane.

I put a 1/1 Erik Williams certified black auto up on ebay. had 12 watchers in the first hour but no bids. Then tnarg came in and gave me what I thought was a sweet offer for it and told him that i'd take it if nobody bid in the next hour while I ran to the store.

Nobody bid, pulled the listing, and sold to Grant. I get a message about an hour later with an offer for 100 bucks on ebay (over double what I accepted from Grant). I didn't think the card would eclipse Grant's offer at auction, but I was proven wrong. Still sold it to grant and put the guy in touch with him in case Grant wanted to double his money really quick.


Long story short- cowboys collectors will kill each other at auction over that card. So long as you make an accurate title and have it set to end at a good time, you'll make at least what you thought was a fair offer, if not more.
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