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Old 11-21-2012, 11:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Need Help From Some Car Saavy People

My car was making a rattling noise on the front passenger side when I would drive between 45 - 55. Took my car to the shop for new shocks & struts. They also replaced the control arm bushing.

Get the car back and it seemed fine driving on the local roads. Get it on the highway and once I get up to 70 it started shaking like crazy. Took it back in and they think they forgot to do a balance. They noted I had 2 bent rims (I already knew I did because of a pot hole).

They said the vibration/rattling is from the bent rims and put those in the back since I have a front wheel drive car.

Now the rattling noise is back (this time on the front driver side) when I hit go about 35 - 45. It goes away when I go above 45 or so.

Would bent rims really cause a rattling noise? Seems strange to me.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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How loud is the rattling? Does your steering wheel shake as well? Does it sound like a deep grinding metal to metal rattle?
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes bent rims and bad alignment will cause this. I would get a couple new rims a nice balance and alignment and you should be good to go. If it still happens it could be your wheel bearings as well.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would have to agree with Chaz on this as far as the wheel bearings go. If you have the tools I would jack the car up and take off the front tires. Spin the hubs. If they spin freely with no resistance and no noise then it's not the problem. However if you hear kind of a grinding noise while spinning the hubs then I would definitely have them changed out

If the hubs are fine then I would do these next 3 things; have your tires checked out. Your tires could be starting to separate and the last thing you need to have a blow out while you're driving. Next have an alignment and balance done. And if you can afford it have your rims replaced
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the responses.

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Originally Posted by lee7786 View Post
How loud is the rattling? Does your steering wheel shake as well? Does it sound like a deep grinding metal to metal rattle?
The rattling is decently loud. I usually just crank the radio volume up about halfway. The steering wheel does shake. Not a bad shake more like a vibration.

It doesn't sound like a metal to metal rattle. It sounds like something is loose and shaking beneath my car. The best comparison I can make is it kind of sounds like when you pull back a door stop and let it go.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omahacolts View Post
I would have to agree with Chaz on this as far as the wheel bearings go. If you have the tools I would jack the car up and take off the front tires. Spin the hubs. If they spin freely with no resistance and no noise then it's not the problem. However if you hear kind of a grinding noise while spinning the hubs then I would definitely have them changed out

If the hubs are fine then I would do these next 3 things; have your tires checked out. Your tires could be starting to separate and the last thing you need to have a blow out while you're driving. Next have an alignment and balance done. And if you can afford it have your rims replaced
Thanks for the advice. Will have to take a look at it tomorrow morning.

The shop I took it to is Belle Tire so I would assume if the bearings were bad they would have let me know but it never hurts to double check.

Belle Tire's advice was 2 new rims ($40 a piece so not too bad) and 4 new tires. They said the tread was wearing funny due to the control arm bushing being shot.

Just wanted to get some other advice from people not trying to get my money. I already spent $700 so didn't really want to spend another $400 on rims and tires if there was another issue.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
The rattling is decently loud.I usually just crank the radio volume up about halfway
Are you a woman ?


You have not given enough info tbh

Does the car pull
How is the wear pattern...inside,outside or universal

If you jack the car up and it is front wheel drive(strut suspension attached to the knuckle will not allow movement), and it moves about freely from back to forward (towards hood and towards you while pulling from the 9 and 12 position), Tie rod ends will be your 1st concern.
If there is minimal movement, move to 6 and 12 and do the same. If you get too much movement,then it is bearings or the joint

Either or, check this before paying for an alignment. Some shops will catch it, some won't care and would rather you leave,come back and then get more money from you
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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If the rims are bent then the tires wont be balanced correctly if you have tires put on or just asked for them to be balanced it might help, or find some cheap used ones mounted and balanced bro.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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What type of card do you have?

I ask because in some cards, when you replace the control arm / bushings you also should replace the stabalizer links as well. Depending on the card, like nissans for example the control arm includes the links and bushings (all in one piece), Where as in Hondas, they are all seperate.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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What kind of car and year would be helpful but like stated, if you do have bent rims the tires won't balance well.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice/info everyone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibberish View Post
Are you a woman ?


You have not given enough info tbh

Does the car pull
How is the wear pattern...inside,outside or universal

If you jack the car up and it is front wheel drive(strut suspension attached to the knuckle will not allow movement), and it moves about freely from back to forward (towards hood and towards you while pulling from the 9 and 12 position), Tie rod ends will be your 1st concern.
If there is minimal movement, move to 6 and 12 and do the same. If you get too much movement,then it is bearings or the joint

Either or, check this before paying for an alignment. Some shops will catch it, some won't care and would rather you leave,come back and then get more money from you
Yea I wasn't sure what other info was needed to diagnose.

Before they did work the car pulled hard to the left. Now it only pulls slightly left (Goes straight for about 100 ft then starts to slightly pull left). Wear pattern looks pretty even. It actually doesnt look too bad to me.

Will check for any movement on the front end but the shop actually did an alignment as part of the work. Had to take it back in because they forgot to balance. The place I go has pretty good customer service and if I have a problem related to work they did they will fix it for free.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangejello727 View Post
What type of card do you have?

I ask because in some cards, when you replace the control arm / bushings you also should replace the stabalizer links as well. Depending on the card, like nissans for example the control arm includes the links and bushings (all in one piece), Where as in Hondas, they are all seperate.
It's a 2007 Chevy Cobalt.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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It is easy to test what I mentioned
Just jack your car up and start yanking
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